Updates appended to bottom of page
5. Fuse, contactor, and distribution box
Here is the rough outline of the Fuse box. Battery output cables pass through the wall of the battery box directly into this box.
A high voltage contactor unit will also reside in this box. This allows for disconnecting power when the key switch is off and to comply to the drag racing requirement of having a shutoff switch exposed on the rear of the vehicle.
The larger outline shows the plane of the panel that will seal off all of the battery module terminals
August 2008 update:
These large contactors (in the white enclosure) that came with the motor Inverter will be relocated into this odd shaped space.
I will make an aluminum skinned box to fit. I will use these 2 embedded captive nuts as a mount point on one end and the battery box mount plate on the other.
Jan 2010 update:
Here is the finished contactor/distribution box:
I liked the powder coating on the battery pack so I had to make this match. It turned out too nice...
Here is the inside of the box prior to final wire connections. Various switching for motor and accessories (separately), fuse, pre-charge resistors, and distribution bars. The large high voltage contactor (buried below fuse) is for the motor only.
The positive input comes in the upper right corner, with the wire gland just passing the copper lug and still tightening down to a water-tight seal on the wire.
The negative input comes in the lower left corner, landing on the common buss bar.
This makes for quick and easy battery pack removal and installation.
For maximizing margins, I lined the complete inside of this box with FR4 as well as sectioning for isolation from high voltage to low voltage control I/O.
Turning on the ignition key switch to Accessory mode will fire up one contactor that powers the Heating, Air conditioning, and the DC/DC converter which supplies power to keep the 12 volt system charged. This allows for temperature regulation while sitting stationary, without any load from the drive system.
Feb 2010 update:
The wired result:
I am using semiconductor pre-charge devices along with the power resistors seen above, in gold color and with cooling fins. They will get little use so they will not be hot normally. In the case of a falut, I will sense it with thermal sensors that can generate a response.
Before installing the lid, I insert this FR4 material for robust electrical isolation.
